Asia, Nepal, Manaslu

Publication Year: 1957.

Manaslu. In 1956 the Japanese made a fourth and successful expedition to 26,658-foot Manaslu, the world’s ninth highest peak. Having briefly scouted out a route in 1952, they returned in 1953 to climb to within 1250 feet of the summit. In 1954, they were prevented from attacking the mountain by the villagers of Sama. The 1956 twelve-man expedition, under the leadership of Yuko Maki, left Katmandu March 11. It took them three weeks to reach Sama, at the foot of the mountain. They advanced up the Manaslu glacier, where Camp I was established April 7 at 17,000 feet. Camp II, on Naike Col at 18,400 feet, was advanced base camp. Between Camp II and Camp III, at 20,300 feet, lay an icefall. Camp IV was at 21,300 feet, and Camp V at 24,000. On May 8 Toshio Imanishi and Gyalzen were established in Camp VI, at 25,500 feet, with the help of Junjiro Muraki and four Sherpas. They reached the summit May 9 at 12:30. Two days later Kiichiro Kato and Minoru Higeta also climbed to the highest point.