Chacraraju and Taulliraju, Cordillera Blanca. The Frenchmen, Lionel Terray, Maurice Davaille, Claude Gaudin, Dr. Pierre Souriac, Robert Sennelier, and Maurice Martin, and the Swiss, Raymond Jenny, left Jungay, ascended the Quebrada de Llangunuco and crossed to the Quebrada de Huaripampa, where they set up their Base Camp. They established Camp 1 July 19 on the northeast glacier of Chacraraju, 20,000 feet, at 16,750 feet. Camp II was placed at 18,000 feet on the rock- and ice-face July 24. The next day was spent fixing ropes on the next 650 feet, up to the col between the eastern and the (higher) western summits. Bad weather forced them down again until July 30. On July 31 the climbers set out at 5 A.M. for the summit. Thanks to the fixed ropes they reached the col at 7:30 A.M., but progress up the heavily- corniced ridge was slow, and by 1 P.M. they had reached only a shoulder, below the summit, which was surmounted by a rock wall that proved to be the most difficult part of the climb. They reached the summit at 5 P.M. Darkness overtook them on the descent and they did not reach Camp II until 7 A.M. next morning.

The climbers traversed up the Quebrada de Huaripampa and crossed a pass to the north face of Taulliraju, 19,128 feet, where they set up Base Camp August 12. Camp I was pitched three days later, above difficult slopes at 17,400 feet. After bad weather all the climbers except Martin and Jenny climbed all day August 17, but were obliged to bivouac at the base of a 120-foot cliff. Next day the climb continued until they reached the summit at 2:30 P.M.