South America, Peru, Vilcanota and Cordillera de Caravaya

Publication Year: 1957.

Vilcanota and Cordillera de Caravaya. In July 1955 the Italians, 72- year-old Piero Ghiglione and Francesco Zaltron, ascended Vilcanota, 18,521 feet, by the southeast face. [All altitudes are those given by Ghiglione. It is the opinion of members of the American Andes Expedition 1956, who made a reconnaissance flight over the area, that most of them are considerably too high.—Ed.] A previous German ascent had been made from the north. Joined by the Swiss, Felix Marx, they continued first east, then north, to the end of the road at Chabuca, at the southern foot of the Cordillera de Caravaya. Their first climb there was San Vicente, about 18,375 feet, which they made on July 16. They moved northward climbing on the same day two peaks which they named Almerico da Schio, 18,242 feet, and Alessandro Rossi, 18,701 feet; then, on July 19, San Braule, 17,553 feet. On July 21 they reached the south peak of Gran Chimboja, 18,865 feet, but cornices and bad snow conditions prevented their getting to the main peak that rose some 350 feet higher. On July 25 they climbed Yanoloma, 20,050 feet, finding difficult steep ice near the summit. To the north of this peak they climbed a 19,128-foot peak which they called Thiene. This ascent, on July 28, was more difficult because of new snow.