South America, Argentina, Volcán Lanín

Publication Year: 1957.

Volcán Lanín. The only long new route made so far this season was on the south face of Volcán Lanín, 12,388 feet. The upper part of this peak has a cap of ice that guards its upper slopes. On November 17, 1956, Carlos Sonntag, Gregorio Ezguerra, Wenceslao Clerch, Juan Mager, Augusto Vallmitjana, Ivan Arnvek, and Carlos Bottazzi left camp at about 3500 feet. They climbed the rocky ridge that leads to the bottom of the cap of ice. At 7000 feet they saw close at hand the enormous overhangs that mark the whole of the lower edge of the icecap. The only route, difficult to be sure, but not exposed to falling ice, is the small glacier which Mazzoldi and Wiese climbed. [See AAJ, 1956, pp. 133-134.] All other possible variants lead to slopes swept by falling séracs. The hanging glacier seemed uninviting and was swept continually by rocks and ice. However, the group crossed towards the east ridge, where it bivouacked. On November 18 the climbers overcame a difficult passage that leads from the ridge to the glacier. Climbing the steep and relatively easy slope of the glacier, they reached the summit at 2 P.M. They descended by the same route.

Vojslav Arko, Club Andino Bariloche