American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Mount Edith, Canadian Rockies

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1957

Mount Edith, Canadian Rockies. Horst von Hennig made the second ascent of a route on the southeast face of Mount Edith in the summer of 1956 with the guide, Hans Gmoser. The latter describes the route as follows: “Our route was just on the east face proper, about 200 yards to the north of the big gulley that cuts through the southeast face. The first rope length leads up over a slab onto a small shelf. From there we followed a steep rib for another 150 feet and then traversed 30 feet to the right before following a small crack up for 40 feet. The rest was fairly easy scrambling and led us to the big shoulder on the south ridge. We followed the ridge from there to the summit.” The first ascent was by Franz Dopf, Philippe de la Salle, and Gmoser on May 10, 1953. Gmoser also describes a route through the east face: “On September 25, 1956, I made with Frank Garneau, of Montreal, a more direct route through the east face. It starts about 50 yards north of the other route. It follows a crack for about 250 feet before traversing for a long way slightly upward along a wide ledge. This leads directly to the bottom of a chimney system which intercepts the south ridge below the summit. This route is easier than the first, but more amusing.”

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.