Waddington Region, Coast Range. In August, 1956, a group of six, consisting of Adolph and Ulf Bitterlich, of Vancouver Island, Philippe de la Salle, Sylvia Lash, Sarka Spinkova, and Earle Whipple, organized a trip to the Mount Waddington area of the Coast Range, British Columbia. Approaching from the head of Knight Inlet, the group ascended Franklin Glacier, set up base camp at Glacier Island, south of the Waddington massif, and recovered an airdrop near Glacier Island.

On August 9, four of the group made what was probably the first ascent of Mount Agur (10,200 feet), while Adolph and Philippe reconnoitered Buckler Glacier, which they found to be impassable. Thus, no approach to the north side of Waddington via Spearmen Col could be made. The party spent August 11-14 climbing the northwest peak of Mount Waddington (13,200 feet) from Glacier Island, via Fury Gap, all six members reaching the summit.

After this success, Adolph and Earle decided to attempt the south face of Waddington (13,260 feet). From a snow hole at the top of Dais Glacier, they ascended two-thirds of the face by a new variation, starting up the short (400-foot) couloir, and connecting with Wiessner’s route near a big triangular snow patch, where lack of pitons, only enough for rappeling, forced retreat. In the author’s opinion, the rappel route off the lower face is by far the safest, provided one can rappel 200 feet at one spot. Rockfall is nil, even in daytime. Ascent by this route is difficult. The group withdrew by the same route by which it went in. All of us enjoyed the almost perfect weather, wonderful climbing, and magnificent scenery. (See: Canadian Alpine Journal, 1956, vol. 39, for further details.)

Earle R. Whipple