North Face of Liberty Bell, Cascades. Towards the end of August, 1956, Hans Kraus and John Rupley packed up Early Winters Creek in the eastern Cascades, above Lake Chelan, to attempt a route on the north face of Liberty Bell. A brief reconnaissance confirmed reports of interesting rock routes. Our camp, immediately below the face, was ideally situated for enjoying the unique beauty of the area and for studying the climb. At daybreak we stepped virtually from our camp onto the face. After about 400 feet of easy rock above a small snow patch below the center of the face, we entered a couloir leading another 400 feet diagonally up and to the right. The first roped pitch was a short, slightly difficult climb out of the couloir over poor rock. After a 150-foot traverse back towards the center of the face, two fifth-class pitches led to the top of an inside corner. Another lead, up and to the right, brought us to a flake, requiring about 20 feet of direct- aid climbing before a second inside corner could be reached. The succeeding 150-foot pitch up this corner was deceptively difficult, requiring about eight stirrups. An easy ledge brought us to the minor summit, from which we traversed to the top. About 700 feet of roped climbing are required by this route, with the north face totaling over 1000 feet. Liberty Bell offers numerous sixth-class routes, the north, east, and west faces all allowing probable direct-aid climbs of varying difficulty; the peak is perhaps more attractive in that the normal route, from a high south notch, is fifth-class.

John Rupley