Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. The only area to see action from the D.M.C. last summer was the Tetons. On September 2, Jack Breitenbach and Barry Corbet did the Durrance Ridge of Symmetry Spire as a warm-up, then met Wayne Hamilton of Dartmouth and George Mattson of the University of Montana the next day. Breitenbach and Corbet did Teepe’s Pillar (Kraus Route) that afternoon, and returned to join the other two at the Petzoldt Caves for the night. On the 3rd all four climbed the Petzoldt-Exum Route on the Grand; all were much impressed by the excellent climbing. The following day, Breitenbach and Corbet tried a new route on the Middle Teton. Starting up the face of the. shoulder which is visible from Garnet Canyon, they kept just to the left of the big cleft which bisects the face. Alternate friction pitches and short overhangs provided very interesting rock work, highlighted by a courte echelle and three or four 6th class pitches. The party reached the top of the shoulder about four hours after leaving the caves. By virtue of the lack of pitons or signs of previous use, it is believed (or hoped) that this is a first. The climb combines a high standard of difficulty with very solid rock. The party proceeded to the south summit, but, because of the necessity of being back at Jenny Lake at a pre-arranged hour, did not have the time to reach the true summit. The south side provided an easy descent route, complicated only by one long rappel.
Hamilton and Mattson left on the night of the 5th to return to Yellowstone-Park. On the 6th and 7th, Breitenbach and Corbet did the C.M.C. route on Moran, which was declared a great disappointment. Traverses of the knife-edges of both Horns and Moran were scheduled for the 8th, but deteriorating weather finally ended climbing. This anticlimax ended the Teton climbing for the summer.
Back at Dartmouth, the Club ran its usual rock-climbing class, injecting a little rescue technique as a new twist. Week-end climbing on the many local practice cliffs prevailed until Thanksgiving, when snow technique and cold weather survival took over. The club is attempting to initiate a winter ice-climbing and above-timberline camping program this year, in preparation for bigger climbs.
A very interesting trip is planned for the 1956 summer, but all the details have not yet been decided. This trip will be followed by another visit to the Tetons. The D.M.C. is looking ahead to an expanded program of all phases of mountaineering.
Barry Corbet, President