Chari Khand. Nasir Ali and I with two Hunza porters made a short attempt on Chari Khand (19,300 feet) from the Naltar valley north of Gilgit in November 1955. The only route appearing feasible was to try to gain the upper reaches of the glacier on its south side after ascending a spur just above the Naltar. From a dry camp at about 14,500 feet on the spur we climbed a couple of thousand feet higher to a good spot for a last camp; but as the bare rock had now become too steep for loaded men or for a safe descent in case of new snow, we decided to give it up. Pressure of my Navy orders would not allow time for another attempt.

David Collins