American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India, Ronti

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1956

Ronti. Mr. Peter Aufschnaiter and I reached the summit of Ronti (19,895 feet) on June 15, 1955. [This was the first ascent. Editor.] Setting out from Nanda Prayag, we ascended the Nanda Kini valley, crossed the Humkum Gala (17,000 feet) and next ascended a pass separating Ronti from Nanda Ghunti. Just short of the summit of this pass we set up camp on the exposed rock of a moraine opposite a prominent snow couloir which showed avalanche tracks in the rocky south face of the ridge connecting Ronti with Point 19,345 feet to the east. The following day we ascended this couloir to a point about a third of the way to the top, where we turned to the left in a snow gully hidden from the pass below by a rocky buttress. We followed this gully and subsequent ledges up to a snow slope leading to the crest of the above-mentioned ridge, on which we remained for a brief distance. The climb up the snowy west slopes of the summit peak of Ronti was somewhat complicated by a number of small hidden crevasses. We followed a slight hump of wind-blown snow dividing the eastern from the southeastern snow slopes on this part of the route. The climb started at 6:00 A.M. The summit was reached at 1:03 P.M. and the return to camp was made at 5:15.

George Hampson, Himalayan Club

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