American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Southern Selkirks

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1956

Southern Selkirks. The fourth Harvard Mountaineering Club Climbing Camp was held last summer during the latter part of August in the Southern Selkirks. Nineteen members participated, and some 19 days were spent in the area. For climbing and training purposes, two base camps were established, one at Glacier Circle, the other at Mitre Creek near the site of Howard Palmer’s old Bishops’ camp. From Glacier Circle, the usual climbs were made, including Fox, Hasler, Augustine, Wheeler and Kilpatrick, the last two being climbed by the same party in one day. To speed up climbs to the south and facilitate the pack over to Mitre Creek, the Deville Cliffs were well ironed and a fixed rope was rigged up. From Mitre Creek, several climbs were made in the western portion of the Purity Range, two of which, I believe, were first ascents. These were the two major peaks (ca. 9,800 and 10,000 feet) on either side of Purity Pass and between Mounts Kilpatrick and Purity. We have tentatively named these mountains ’'Pristine” and "Vestal,” respectively. Both were predominantly snow climbs and presented no significant route finding problems. Mt. Purity itself was climbed directly from the north—a ridge climb, and a new route, I believe, which entailed going over a 10,000-foot subsidiary peak en route to the summit.

Ted Scudder

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