North America, Canada, Alberta, Mt. Kitchener, East Ridge

Publication Year: 1956.

Mt. Kitchener, East Ridge. We had been attracted by the advantages of a new and shorter route up Mt. Kitchener which would avoid hours of toil on the Athabaska tongue and the Columbia Icefield. In the early hours of July 25 we (Fred Ayres, Don Claunch, and Dick Irvin) set out over the terminal moraines of the Dome Glacier, which separates Snow Dome from Kitchener, and toiled up the deceptively short glacier. Finally after reaching a point below the col between Kitchener and its easterly neighbor, K2, we labored up the monotonous, broken shale slopes to the col. In gathering clouds we ascended the steep but not really difficult east snow ridge, crossing several crevasses, until apparently not far from the summit we clambered over the rocks onto a flat platform where we found a small cairn but no message. Beyond was a gap in the ridge and beyond and above, more mist shrouded rocks—we were on a pinnacle! Our distant reconnaissance of the route had disclosed no gap or irregularity in the ridge; a poor joke on the part of the mountain, we thought.

The cleft was of distinctly inferior design with both sides composed of loose vertical shale, and the bottom, 75 feet below, a steep ice chute capped by an unstable cornice. Fortunately the mists were now thick enough to prevent our seeing the total exposure. Belayed by Fred, Dick moved down the rocks to an icy patch, chipped tiny holds for fingers and spikes, then crossed to more rock and let himself carefully down onto the snow of the cornice. The snow seemed solid enough, so he crossed the gap and sunk in his ice axe for a belay. It went in distressingly easily; to his dismay he discovered that it went right through the cornice! Knowing that you cannot have everything, he called for Fred to join him. You can imagine his surprise when he saw Fred slip and start to fall. Don held the slip and Fred joined him at the belay spot. After encouraging Fred to find a better place for his axe, Dick started to lead up the west side of the notch. The first few steps were snow, followed by ice, then rock where we had to shed crampons, gloves, axe, pack and goggles. There was just enough rope to reach a welcome belay spot at the top of this pitch. It is difficult to understand how rock can be so loose and so steep at the same time. Occasionally I have my doubts about Newton. Fortunately our fear of more gaps did not materialize, and a short scramble took us to the ice. A few swings of the axe and we stepped out onto the icefields; only a trudge remained to the top, elusive though it was in the mist.

Richard Irvin and Don Claunch