North America, United States, Washington, New Ascents in the Cascade Range

Publication Year: 1956.

New Ascents in the Cascade Range. Early in the summer of 1955 two new climbs were undertaken in the Washington Pass area of the Methew Cascades. One, a new route of difficult standard, the southeast buttress of The Temple, on Kangaroo Ridge, was accomplished by John Parrott, Louis Pottschmid, Herb Staley, and Fred Beckey. The crucial portion of the ascent was an exposed chimney with divergent, smooth, flaring walls. On the nearby Liberty Bell massif, John Parrott and Fred Beckey made the ascent of the only unclimbed summit of the five in the group, Concord Tower. The climb involved a certain amount of tension climbing in addition to the use of three bolts to overcome some short, crackless overhangs.

In the Cashmere Crags the "White Feather” of Three Feathers was scaled by John Parrott, Bob Lewis and Fred Beckey. After several hundred feet of class 4 climbing, the summit monolith rises flawlessly above an exposed granite crest. Its ascent was entirely artificial, requiring the use of 10 bolts—a very full afternoon’s work in slings.

Numerous pinnacles on the west ridge of Mt. Stuart and Peak 8700, one mile to the east of Stuart, were climbed by Art Maki and Fred Beckey. Although some of these summits appear difficult from the distance, none imposed any problem. In fact, the rope was seldom required.

Waterfall Column, adjacent to Drury Falls on the south side of Tum- water Canyon, was climbed for the first time on June 6 after several preliminary attempts. A long, exposed final overhang required the use of pitons, bolts and wooden wedges for direct aid.

Fred Beckey