North America, United States, Wyoming, Tetons, South Face of Disappointment Peak

Publication Year: 1956.

South Face of Disappointment Peak. Near the end of August Dick Pownell suggested that I make a new route with him on the south side of a subsidiary buttress of the Disappointment Peak ridge between Surprise and Amphitheater Lakes. The route requires about three hours. Several pitons were used for anchors. The majority of leads were class 4, a few being class 5 where protection was desired. We began the climb at the western edge of the face and then traversed right (east), where we reached the ridge quite far down from the summit. At this point there is a choice of proceeding unroped to the summit or crossing, also unroped, the remainder of the face to the outlet of Surprise Lake. Allen Steck