American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Wyoming, Tetons, West Ridge of the Middle Teton

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1956

West Ridge of the Middle Teton. The long west ridge of the Middle Teton was ascended for the first time on August 4, 1955, by William Buckingham and Mary Lou Nohr. From the south fork of Cascade Canyon we followed a broad couloir into the lower end of the basin between the west ridges of the Grand and Middle Tetons. From there we climbed the ridge over numerous large towers to the section of small pinnacles just before the point where the west ridge abuts against the Middle Teton itself. These pinnacles proved to be extremely rotten, and we climbed only a few, traversing the rest on the south side. There followed a difficult chimney, a bit of airy face-climbing and finally several hundred feet of scrambling before we stood on the summit, just 12 hours after we had left Jenny Lake.

William J. Buckingham

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