American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Himalayas, Makalu

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1955

Makalu. The French expedition to Makalu left Jogbani on August 21st and encountered the most trying conditions on their approach to the Barun Valley because of the severe monsoon. During a very difficult river crossing over the Dubi, where a bridge had been carried away, two Nepalese porters were drowned. Base camp was finally established on September 15th at 15,900 feet on the right bank of the Barun Glacier. The transport officer, Dilli Bahadur Werma, fell sick with pneumonia there and died after a week’s illness. Despite the most unfavorable weather, which prevented their attacking the main peak (27,790 feet), Jean Franco, the expedition leader, Lionel Terray, and two Sherpas reached the summit of Makalu II (25,460 feet). Other members of the group were J. Bouvier, J. Couzy, P. Leroux, G. Magnone, Dr. Jean Rivolier, and l’Abbé Bordet, geologist.

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