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Asia, Nepal, Himalayas, Kangchenjunga

Kangchenjunga. A British group in April and May visited the Nepalese side of Kangchenjunga to explore the climbing possibilities. Political restrictions increased the difficulties of the approach, which was made from the Singalila Ridge into Nepal. Base camp was on the Yalung Glacier between 18,000 and 19,000 feet. From there, they reconnoitered possible routes. A route from Paches’ Grave is dangerous for the first 1000 feet and joins the ridge a mile from the summit. The Talung Saddle route was explored but not recommended. A route up the main icefall seemed best, although the upper icefall may prove difficult. A party under Charles Evans will return in 1955.