Harvard Mountaineering Club

Publication Year: 1954.

Harvard Mountaineering Club. During the summer of 1953, members of the Club conducted expeditions to British Colombia, Alberta, Peru, and Alaska. In British Columbia Bill Putnam and Harry Francis ran an 18-man climbing camp in the Northern Selkirks. In addition to training new men in the ways of big mountains, the party made a third ascent of Mt. Sir Sandford (11,590 ft.) by a new route and notable first ascents of the West Peak of the Blackfriars (10,490 ft.) and of Gibraltar (9,590 ft.). Also in British Columbia a four-man party succeeded in making four first ascents in the Spillimacheen and Carbonate ranges of the northern Purcells. In Alberta a party of three climbed Mt. Robson, which until 1953 had remained unclimbed for 15 years. In South America Fred Dunn led a party on several first ascents in the central Peruvian Andes, and Brad Washburn and Ned Ames did considerable survey work and climbed Peak C and Mt. Brooks in the Alaska Range near Mt. McKinley.

In the local areas the Club has continued its active rock-climbing program, with the introduction this year of a second-man training system, consisting mainly of special belaying practice. It is hoped that conditions on Mt. Washington will be favorable during the winter for instruction in cold-snow camping, as well as in snow and ice climbing. Under the auspices of the Safety Committee the Club is running a beginners first aid course again this year, the successful completion of which is a requirement for all Club leaders.

J. S. Humphries