American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Chicago Mountaineering Club

  • Club Activities
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1954

Chicago Mountaineering Club. Sixteen new members during the year brought the total membership to 140. Ten local outings were held from April through October with attendance of 273 members and 200 guests. During the outing period, the Iowa Mountaineers scheduled a few of their trips to coincide with ours so that the groups could share in climbing experience. Members and guests were given rock-climbing and safety instructions under the supervision of the Outing Chairman, Paul Stettner.

Our 6th biennial outing was held during the first two weeks of August in the southern Wind River Range of Wyoming. An advance party of eight set up camp at Lonesome Lake at the head of the North Fork of the Pope Agie River, elevation 10,187 feet. Fifty-seven participants reported a successful outing. Snow-school instruction and demonstration was given by Outing Chairman Paul Stettner. Good weather prevailed; parties climbed the numerous peaks in the area, including Lizard Head (12,842 ft., the highest peak), Pingora, Pyramid Peak, Mt. Washakie, and War Bonnet. The success of the outing was marred by the death of Karl Bollinger, a new member, who came to us after having had considerable climbing experience in his native Germany. The accident occurred on War Bonnet peak.

Six members joined the Alpine Club of Canada outing in the upper Whirlpool Valley in Jasper National Park. Dr. Guy Everett and Ed Porter were in the party making the second ascent of the south ridge of Mt. Hooker. Bob Schluter and Dr. Alex Fabergé spent eleven days in the northern Selkirks, making a first ascent of Mt. Chapman. David Bidwell joined the American Alpine Club outing in the Needles of the San Juan Range in southwestern Colorado.

Nine monthly programs featuring movies or Kodachrome slides were held for members and guests. Dr. Everett was elected to serve as the Chairman of the Middle West Section of the Alpine Club of Canada when the group held a special meeting in Chicago in June; Capt. Albert H. MacCarthy was an honorary guest at this meeting, the purpose of which was to organize the Middle West Section.

Other programs featured a lecture and demonstration of the dynamics of motion as applied to hiking, climbing, and mountaineering by Dr. Beckett Howorth.

Plans for the 1954 season include a Safety and Training Course under the supervision of Joe Stettner, a mountaineer of many years’ experience, including a period of service as mountain instructor at Camp Hale in Colorado. This will be the second time a safety course has been given to our members; the first series was conducted in 1949. A series of discussions and theoretical lectures beginning in January will be followed by demonstrations and practice at the spring outings, in cooperation with the Outing Chairman.

Mrs. Harry Lumby

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