American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Das Glocknerbuch

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  • Publication Year: 1954

Das Glocknerbuch, by Oskar Kühlken. 308 pages, with 9 reproductions of period etchings, 12 pen drawings in the text, 2 double-page diagrams of the Glockner massif, and 39 full-page photographs. Salzburg: Verlag “Das Bergland Buch,” 1951. Price, $4.00.

The Gross Glockner is now the highest peak in Austria. In a book worthy of its subject we are given its history, the various routes for climbing, and a symposium on the development of skiing in the region. We learn of the French surgeon, Hacquet, who discovered a feasible route eight years before Saussure ascended Mont Blanc, leading to Cardinal Salm’s expedition of 1799, when the Klein Glockner was attained, and the conquest of the highest point in the following year. One thrills at the ascent of the north couloir by Pallavicini, where his guide Tri-busser cut 2000 steps, followed by the count’s tragic death on the Glocknerwand in 1885. This is but part of the mountain's story, leading to its final degradation in the present horror of the Glockner road.

J. M. T.

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