La Conquête du Salcantay, Géant des Andes, by Bernard Pierre. 193 pages, 15 illustrations, 3 maps, bibliographies. Glossary of Quechua and Spanish expressions by Prof. Theodoro Meneses. Paris: Amiot-Dumont, 1953.

This book is an unqualified “must” for anyone interested in Peruvian mountaineering. The early half recounts the first ascent of Salcantay, northwest of Cuzco. The latter half discusses the problems of Andinisme, which is neither Alpinisme nor yet Himalayisme.

This latter section merits translation and separate publication. There are sections on the geography, exploration, weather, and approaches to the Cordillera de Vilcabamba. There is also a survey of all the other ranges in Peru considered as mountaineering frontiers. A bibliography is given for each range. There are sections on various aspects of mountaineering expedition problems in Peru; there are notes on the future of Indians as porters and on the use of the ice-axe to kill cows. Regrettably, the author feels constrained to offer no more medical advice than “take a doctor.” The glossary, by a professor of Quechua at the University of Lima, correlates several hundred Quechua expressions with their French and Spanish equivalents.

The first half of the volume, concerning Salcantay, is good reading. Pierre has written other books, and he has an enthusiastic style with change-of-pace. He is clever at characterization and generous toward his American expedition-mates. He utilizes the Marx-Broennimann incident to good literary advantage. The “competition” of the “rival” parties provides suspense, and the characterization of Marx and Broennimann is interesting in terms of wider issues. The photographic coverage, especially of the route and the summit climb, is excellent.

David Harrah