American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Harvard Mountaineering Club

  • Club Activities
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1953

Harvard Mountaineering Club. This past summer, the Club put three parties, 11 members of the Club, into the Alaska Range.

Thayer Scudder organized and led the Harvard Brooks-Mather Expedition, making the first ascents of Mt. Brooks 11,900 feet, Mt. Mather 12,100 feet, and two lesser peaks of about 11,000 feet. They also accomplished a program of surveying for the Boston Museum of Science and botanical collecting for Harvard University. The Harvard McKinley Expedition of 5 members got to within 700 feet of the summit of McKinley before turning back because of bad weather. The route followed was the traditional Muldrow Glacier approach. The party was on the mountain 40 days, gaining valuable experience. Two members of the Club also made climbs in the Castner Glacier region of the Alaska Range, while another party visited the Selkirks and made first ascents of Mt. Corbin, 8897 feet, and Pyrite, approximately 8400 feet.

The Club had a very successful rock climbing program this fall and the climbing program will extend into the winter, with trips to Mt. Washington to give members experience on snow and ice and in bad-weather camping. This increased participation has made it necessary for us to develop a more extensive program for leader qualification. As during the past two years, the Safety Committee has emphasized safety in our climbing procedure.

The climbing camp run by the Club two years ago will again take place this summer for two or three weeks in British Columbia.

H. S. Francis Jr.

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