North America, United States, Washington, North Cascades, Forbidden Peak, North Ridge of Forbidden Peak

Publication Year: 1953.

North Ridge of Forbidden Peak. The last unknown ridge on pyramidal Forbidden Peak, in the Cascade Pass area, was climbed June 8th by Don Wilde, Jack Schwabland, and Fred Beckey. It is perhaps one of the most alpine routes in the United States: a half- mile narrow and very jagged rock crest sweeps up to the pointed summit, and on both sides is relentless exposure. At two places the northwest glacier clings steeply to the ridge, with huge overhanging cornices, and it was at these crossings that the greatest danger was encountered. Changing from tennis shoes to boots and ice axes six times on the ridge consumed additional time.