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North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Other Climbs in the Cascades

Other Climbs in the Cascades. Cascade Peak, the last unclimbed peak in the Cascade Pass region, was ascended on July 23rd by Schoening, Sharpe and Beckey. From Gilbert, at the end of the newly-extended Cascade River Road, the party made its way through brush thickets and a rockslide to an ice couloir separating. Cascade Peak from the E. flank of Johannesberg Mountain. Crampons facilitated the ascent of the 3000-ft. couloir. The only difficulty was at a bergschrund: the leader crawled up a thin lip from a shoulder stand. The final ascent to the summit (7500 ft.) was made in sneakers on the S. side. Loose rock was much in evidence. Having sighted several apparently unstable séracs perched above the couloir on the Johannesberg wall, the party made a circuitous return by way of Cascade Pass.

On the week end of September 9th, Hieb, Schoening and Beckey flew with Ralph Widrig, in his plane, to the head of Chilliwack Lake, in a remote section of the Northern Cascades, just across the Canadian boundary. Middle Peak was found to have been climbed previously; but several other summits in the area—possibly unclimbed—were visited, and a good deal of reconnoitering was accomplished. To save weight, the party carried no sleeping bags. A bivouac fire proved to be adequate for warmth.

On October 15th the “Devil’s Delight” route on the S. face of Castle Rock (Tumwater Canyon) was completed by Schoening, Grande and Beckey. One bolt and more than 20 pitons were used, most of them for direct aid on a 55-ft. overhang. The last 220 ft. went surprisingly fast.