The Führerbuch of Edward Feuz, Sr.

[Through the courtesy of Edward Feuz, Jr., we have been privileged to examine the Führerbuch of his father, Edward Feuz, Sr. (1859-1944). The elder Feuz and Christian Häsler, Sr., were the first Swiss guides employed by the Canadian Pacific Railroad and in 1899 stationed at Glacier House.

The earliest entry in the guidebook is dated 26 August 1881 and records an excursion from lnterlaken to Lauterbrunnen and across the two Scheideggs to Meiringen. The last entries are those of Eaton Cromwell, enumerating the many ascents in the Alps during the seasons 1921-23, inclusive, when he was this guide’s principal employer.

Until 1899 and after 1911, the book deals with Alpine climbs, chiefly in the Oberland, with patrons of many nationalities. One notes that in 1895 Thomas Willing Balch (1866-1927), an original member of the American Alpine Club, was taken to the Petersgrat on August 15th, and across the Strahleck on August 22nd.

The chief importance of the book is in the record of Feuz’s activity in Canada, a transcription of which now follows.—J. M. T.]

July 12, 1899. Today I went on Eagle Peak with Edward Feuz, who cared for me splendidly. We did the climb from Hotel at Glacier in 6½ hours, returning in 3 hours. This being my first mountain of any sort, I can make no comparisons. But if a beginner needs a guide, try Feuz.

John Crosby.

July 22, 1899.I made the traverse of Eagle Peak1 from Glacier House with Ed. Feuz, together with Mr. Bryant of Philadelphia. The descent on the North Side was most interesting and necessitated great care from each member of the Party owing to the Precipitous nature of the rocks & their looseness. I can speak most highly of the care displayed by Ed. Feuz and the Knowledge which he possesses of his Craft both on the snow & rocks. He was accompanied by his colleague Ch. Haesler. I trust that it may be my good fortune to find myself in the company of these excellent guides once more.

Louis J. Steele, London, England.

[The following three entries are translated:]

Yesterday with the guide Eduard Feuz (and Christian Haesler) and in Company of M. Leprince-Ringuet of Paris, I ascended Sir Donald,2 the summit of which was attained only once before, on July 27, 1890. The expedition lasted 20 hours. We left Glacier House at 3 o’clock in the

morning and returned at 11¼ in the evening….

Glacier House, Canada, 27 July, 1899.

Heinrich Cordes, of Berlin (German Embassy, Peking).

I join M. Cordes in expressing my thanks to our guide Ed. Feuz for his devotion and energy shown during the long and difficult ascent of Mt. Sir Donald.

F. Leprince Ringuet,

engineer of the Bureau of Mines, France.

Today I traversed Avalanche Peak with guide Eduard Feuz, and can thoroughly recommend him as a careful and agreeable companion.

Rudolf, Graf von Meran,3 Graz.

Glacier House, 28/7/99.

Glacier, British Columbia, Aug. 15th, 1899. The first ascent of Mt. Dawson, probably the highest peak of the Selkirks3 and without doubt the most difficult climb yet accomplished from the Glacier House, was made Aug. 13th, 1899, in company with Prof. Charles E. Fay under the guidance of Eduard Feuz and Ch. Haesler. The success of the expedition was due entirely to the great skill and courage of these two guides, and their efforts on this occasion merit the greatest praise.

Herschel C. Parker, New York.

(Member of the Appalachian Mountain Club)

Glacier, British Columbia, VIII, 19, 1899. During our stay at Glacier, Edward Feuz has acted as guide for our party on several occasions to our entire satisfaction. On the trip to Mt. Avalanche 3 of the party of 5 were ladies. On this occasion he rendered each of us invaluable services, & displayed the fullest qualifications for the performance of the duties devolving on him. He entered with spirit into our scientific observations on the rate of flow of the Illecillewaet Glacier, and materially aided us in making them.…

George Vaux, Jr., of Philadelphia.

(Member of the Appalachian Mountain Club)

Edward Feuz acted as my chief guide in the ascent of Mt. Sir Donald5 upon July 11th, 1900. The climb was attended with considerable difficulty, whilst all of the upper portion of the descent was accomplished during a severe thunder storm, which added much to the labors of the guides, owing to falling stones and ice, and the slippery condition of the rocks. During all the varying demands upon him, Edward showed himself to be perfectly familiar with the requirements of the situation, and demonstrated his ability to meet successfully each difficulty as it arose.

I have also been with him this year several times on the Illecillewaet Glacier and to the Asulkan Pass. On every occasion he has been most attentive and obliging, and his unfailing good humor makes him an agreeable man to come in contact with. I can most unqualifiedly recommend him to anyone requiring the services of a competent guide, in which position his knowledge of English is of great advantage.

George Vaux, Jr.

Glacier House, B. C., July 12, 1900.

Upon July 21st, 1900, Edward Feuz acted as one of the guides accompanying my sister6 & self in the ascent of Mt. Stephen at Field, British Columbia. He again proved himself most efficient during the whole of a rather difficult climb, in which unstable & crumbling rocks produced conditions of considerable danger. As a result of this further experience, I can but reiterate what I have before written as to Edward’s competency & reliability.

George Vaux, Jr.

August 5th, 1900.

Glacier, B. C., 8/28/1900. I have made three separate trips to the Great Glacier with Ed. Feuz as guide, each time taking a different path & in each instance I take great pleasure in saying that Feuz showed himself to be a first class guide in every particular. He takes pleasure in insuring the safety of the tourist & annihilates distance for the sake of showing the tourist all there is to be seen.

Saml. R. Stern, Spokane, Wn.

Glacier, B. C., Aug. 28, 1900. I was one in the party written about on the preceding page. It’s a duty, but no less a pleasure to testify to the great care taken of our party in our trip of 12 hours. If there is a better & more painstaking guide than Eduard Feuz, I have never met him, though I’ve made numerous trips in the diff’ mountain climbs of Switzerland.

Julius M. Wile, Rochester, N. Y.

Edward Feuz accompanied Mr. A. Guise and myself in the ascent of Mt. Avalanche, Sept. 8, 1900, as chief guide. I can not speak too highly of him in every way. He is most careful and attentive, and an excellent mountaineer.

Minto [Governor-General of Canada].

Glacier House, Sept. 9, 1900.

Sept. 11, 1900. I have had the advantage of Edward Feuz’s mountaineering skill, as my guide, in the ascent of Mt. Sir Donald7; I have found him an excellent guide, & admired his strength, skill, and cheery disposition. It was difficult, at times, during the day’s climb in his company not to believe that one was in Switzerland again. Whether on ice or on rock he is thoroughly trustworthy.

George Grey Butler, F.G.S.

(Ewart Park, Wooler, Northumberland).

On July 21st, 1901, we ascended Mount Avalanche for the first time in the season. Edward Feuz acted as our guide & we were very pleased with his skill & resource, as also with his cheery disposition.

J. Leslie Wright, Hampton in Arden, England.

Philip Bayldon, London, England.

Glacier House, July 19, [1900]. Edward Feuz, as head guide, accompanied me to the summit of Mt. Dawson, the highest peak of the Selkirks, by way of the Asulkan Pass and the Geikie Glacier. I was impressed with his skill and excellent judgment in making our way, especially along the high arete of Mt. Dawson, which was treacherously corniced with overhanging snow. It gives me much pleasure to recommend him as a competent, careful and agreeable guide.

B. S. Comstock,8 New York.

Camp on Spray River, Aug. 3d, 1901. The undersigned, having employed Edward Feuz, one of the Swiss guides of the Canadian Pacific

Railway, on an expedition to Mount Assiniboine extending from July 23d to August 3d, gladly bear testimony to his excellent skill and to the uniform courtesy of his deportment during the somewhat trying incidents of the trip. After witnessing his ability and coolness under exceptional circumstances we can commend him as an altogether trustworthy guide.

Henry G. Bryant.

Walter D. Wilcox.9

Glacier House, B. Columbia, Aug. 22nd, ’01. On the 18th and 19th of Aug., ’01, Eduard Feuz and Charles Schleunegger acted as my guides on ascent of Mt. Dawson, over 11,000 feet high. As the trip is a long and rather exacting one, necessitating camping out over night, and as it involves all kinds of work and climbing, on rock, snow and ice, and the crossing of three glaciers, the trip gave me ample opportunity to form an opinion of Eduard Feuz, both as to his professional capacity as a guide and to his qualities as a man and a companion.

Feeling therefore able to judge correctly, it gives me a very great pleasure here to acknowledge my deepest and heartiest appreciation of Eduard Feuz’s tact, coolness and practical ability as a guide under all kinds of circumstances, which always gave me the most perfect feeling of safety, and also of his gentlemanly ways, his kindness and his upright character, which made him a pleasant companion both during the hard work of climbing and around the campfire….

Aug. Eggers,10 Grand Forks, N. D.

Dept, of the Interior, Canada. Topographical Survey of the Selkirk Mts. On the 31st August, 1901, Edward Feuz, Swiss Guide at Glacier House, B. C., assisted me in establishing a Photographic and Triangulation station on the summit of Mt. Sir Donald,11 and again on the 7th of September, a similar station on the highest of the Swiss Peaks.

The establishment of these stations was a work of some difficulty owing to the survey instruments it was necessary to carry to the summits, and I have no hesitation in saying that the success attained is in a large measure due to the skill and ability of Edward Feuz as a guide.

Arthur O. Wheeler, D.L.S., Topographical Survey Staff, Dept, of the Interior. In charge.

Glacier House, B. C. On September 18th, 1901, Eduard Feuz was my guide for the ascent of Mount Eagle, the first ascent of the season. It is impossible to speak too highly of his skill & kindliness. We made the ascent in slightly under five hours, in spite of new snow. Eduard Feuz also went over the Great Glacier & up Look-out Point with me. I was much impressed by his great courtesy & ability.

Henrietta L. Tuzo, Warlingham, Surrey, England.

Glacier House, B. C. July 10, 1902. Having had Edward Feuz as my guide on the following trips: to Perley Rock, Glacier Crest, Mt. Afton, Avalanche Mt. and Southern Spur of Sir Donald (this trip should be missed by no one), I take pleasure in recommending him as an efficient and courteous guide.

George F. Archer, New York City.

July 12, 1902. Yesterday Edward Feuz and myself made the ascent of Cheops. There was no visible evidence12 that anyone had been up there before us; we constructed two “stone men” and left our names. Edward Feuz contributed largely to the success of the trip by his own mountaineering skill and kindness. I can unreservedly recommend him. We left the Glacier House at 10.10 a.m., reached the summit at 4.00 p.m.; spent forty minutes at top and reached Glacier House at 7.22. I consider this good time considering that there was no path. Coming down the mountain we had three or four good slides, two on soft snow and two more on hard snow crossing a mountain stream. It required great care in descending these two latter, and a little judicious steering had to be done in order to avoid rock on one side and a bad fall on the other. However, this sliding was a grand success, largely due to the skill of Ed. Feuz. In case I should make another trip to the Selkirks, Ed. Feuz and myself shall climb one or more peaks upon which man has never trod.

George F. Archer.

Glacier House, July 22, 1902. Eduard Feuz was my guide yesterday up Mt. Sir Donald.13 I take great pleasure in recommending him as a thoroughly satisfactory guide and a very pleasant companion. The ascent was made under somewhat unfavorable conditions as the day was warm and the snow very wet. Feuz showed great skill in avoiding dangerous snow and falling rocks. One time he climbed up through a water-fall and then dragged me up a vertical smooth rock to avoid wetting me. I hope many may have the pleasure of his company in these most beautiful mountains.

Irving Langmuir, New York, N. Y. (Member of the F.A.C.).

Glacier House, B. C. On Wednesday, July 30, my wife and I, in charge of Eduard Feuz, started out at 9.30 in the morning for Mt. Abbott. We reached the flag at the top not long after twelve. There we lunched. As the day was fine, we decided to try Mt. Afton, which is not so often climbed. The difficult part of the ascent is the steep wall of snow which one had to mount in order to reach the rocks above. This seems almost impassable for a novice, but we made our way up safely and had a glorious view. This is the ninth ascent of Mt. Afton, and the second time it has been ascended by a lady.14

On Aug. 2 we were conducted by Eduard, along with Dr. Jones, of Minneapolis, to the top of the Asulkan Pass. We can commend in the highest terms Eduard’s coolness and skill, and his courtesy and care.

W. E. Mead, Middletown, Conn.

Glacier, B. C., Aug. 9/02. On last Wednesday, Aug. 6/02, during a stay at Glacier House, Edward Feuz acted as guide for me and certain members of my family in an ascent of Eagle Peak, one of the stiff climbs from that place. Our party consisted of myself, my son 17 and a daughter 13 years old. In ascending and descending the mountain we were roped for several hours, passing places requiring great care and steadiness all through the day. Our guide impressed us as skillful and carefree to a marked degree, and his demeanor throughout inspired us with confidence. His cheerfulness also and evident desire to minister to our safety and comfort in every way made the trip more enjoyable.

Samuel E. Stokes, Philadelphia.

Glacier House, B. C. August 14th, 1902. Yesterday Mount Macoun,15 one of the 11,000 ft. high peaks of this interesting region, was climbed for the first time. Edward Feuz was my guide. We left the Hotel at 5.20 a.m., and reached Perley Rock at 8, struck eastward on a six-miles’ course across the neve, and made for the base of Macoun at 10.30. We reached the top of the mountain, by the N.W. side, at 12.15. The view was most inspiring and majestic, embracing whole valleys and parallel mountain ranges. We descended by the N.E. side, and the whole trip with its long distances and stiff climbing was accomplished in less than

hours. Feuz was all that a good guide can possibly be. I much admired his coolness and daring. His judgment was never at fault.

J. C. Herdman,16 Supt. Presbyn. Mns., B. C. and Alberta.

Glacier House, B. C. August 30th, 1902. Last Wednesday I made the ascent of Mt. Sir Donald,17 with Edward Feuz as one of my guidcs. Extremely bad weather made the descent hard, but I found Edward thoroughly competent and efficient throughout.

Marian Raymond, Boston, Mass.

Glacier House, B. C. September 14th, 1902. The day before yesterday Edward Feuz led my wife and me up Mount Avalanche, and yesterday we made the first ascent of Mount Cougar in his company. On both occasions he proved himself very efficient and we were thoroughly satisfied with his guidance.

F. E. Weiss.

Evelyn Spence Weiss.

Topographical Survey of the Selkirk Mts. Aug. 22nd, 23d, 1902. The guide Edward Feuz accompanied me when establishing photo and triangulation stations on Mt. Dawson (Häsler Peak) and Mt. Fox. He assisted me materially in the work and has taught me much of the art of climbing on snow and ice.

Arthur O. Wheeler, F.R.G.S., Topographical Surveys Staff, Dept. Interior, Canada. In charge.

We have made several trips from the hotel with Edward Feuz as chief guide. In all places and under all circumstances he has shown himself to be thoroughly acquainted with the mountains and he made our climbs as easy as possible for us. He has been very obliging in every way and has proven himself in all respects a good guide.

Harold McC. Hover, Redlands, California, July 16, 1903.

Glacier House, B. C. July 16, 1903. During our stay in this most interesting and attractive spot we have made a few tours and climbs under the direction and guidesmanship of Edward Feuz. The beauty and grandeur of our trips has been greatly enhanced by the forethought, ability and the generalship of our guide Edward.

Raymond Hornby, Redlands, California.

Glacier, B. C., Sept. 2nd, 1903. I take great pleasure in adding a few words more of commendation, to those already written before, about Edw. Feuz. In company with Mr. Malcolm Stuart and Edward Feuz and son, I made an attempt on Mt. Tupper18 in July this year. Bad weather foiled our plans, and added greatly to the labor and discomfort of the guides. All was accepted with unfailing cheerfulness and good humor by Edward (also by his son).

Yesterday I had another exhibition of his skill and resourcefulness, for he, as head guide, and his son took Mr. W. Meakin and myself up Mt. Sir Donald.19 Edward picked out a new way, for the early part of the journey, to avoid the rocks and avalanches in the “couloir,” and with unerring judgment selected the most easy and direct route.

Of his ability sufficient has already been said to show that he is considered thoroughly competent and reliable. I wish, particularly, to commend his uniform cheerfulness and good humor and willingness to oblige. His appreciation of a joke and good understanding of English make long journeys go quickly in his company.

J. H. Batcheller,20 Deadwood, S. D.

[Translated :]

On Sept. 3, 1903 I made with E. Feuz and Chr. Bohren the first ascent of Mt. Sir Donald from the north side21 and the first traverse. During this expedition, which is certainly one of the most difficult made hitherto in North America, I have come to know Feuz as an outstanding guide, who combines great care and absolute safety with absolute mountain knowledge. So I recommend him heartily to all those who wish to undertake something difficult.

E. Tewes, Bremen. Glacier, B. C., 4/9/1903.

Glacier, British Columbia. The mountains can have no better guide than Edward Feuz. He is never at a loss and seems to divine the way when he cannot see it, always sure, safe, and a most agreeable companion. My trip up the Swiss Peaks with Edward Feuz will long be remembered as one of the striking ascents of my life. His services at the Hut and his leadership in storm as well as in sunshine during the ascent, were always in my interest and with regard to my comfort. Let the visitor to Glacier seeking enjoyment, make the ascent of Swiss Peaks and may he have Edward Feuz as guide.

Frederick C. Hornby, Redlands, California, July 15, 1904.

Glacier, British Columbia. There is very little that one can add to the splendid tributes paid here to Edward Feuz. My few words would be but an echo of what has been already said. I have twice climbed Sir Donald22 under his guidance and each ascent has been rendered dangerous because of storm and ice. His ability seems to come from a never ending fountain of resources, and I most highly recommend him to all those wishing to conquer nature by making the ascent of the neighboring peaks.

R. Hornby, Redlands, California, July 15, 1904.

Glacier House, August 4/04. We made today the ascent of Mount Hermit, a hitherto unclimbed peak, with Edward Feuz and his son Edward as our guides. We ascended the right-hand peak of the mountain by the snow couloir and made straight across the mountain from right to left, surmounting each of its four summits & building a cairn on each, descending the slope on the left. The rock work, especially in the descent, required care & discretion and in these our chief guide was never lacking. Our delightful excursion was made secure & pleasant in the company of this able, careful guide, whose care for our safety & comfort was all that could be desired. We look forward to other ascents in such good company.

S. H. Gray, Dundas, Ont.

Alex. M. Gordon, Banff, Alta.

J. C. Herdman, Calgary.

Edward Feuz has accompanied me as guide on the following expeditions,—Mount Sir Donald,24 Rogers Peak, Swiss Peaks (1st asc. of ridge

& W. peak25), Mt. Sifton, Mount Dawson, Mt. Deville (1st ascent from this side25) & Mt. Bonney, from the Loop Creek. He is a good & careful guide on rocks, ice & snow & I found him always a very pleasant

& attentive companion.

Gertrude E. Benham, Glacier House, September 15, 1904.

With Edward Feuz and his son as guides, my friend Swami Abhedananda of Calcutta26 and I made the climb of Mt. Sir Donald. Owing to the extremely warm weather the glacier was in a very unsafe condition and the bergschrund was almost impassable. I cannot praise too highly the courage and patience of our guides that made the ascent possible under such adverse conditions.

Herschel C. Parker (American Alpine & Explorers Clubs).

Glacier House, Aug. 11th, 1905.

Glacier House. Aug. 11th, 1905. Edward Feuz and his son are excellent guides on rock, snow and ice and very careful in most difficult and dangerous places. I can recommend them to novices as well as good mountaineers.

Swami Abhedananda, of Calcutta, India.

[There are no entries in the Führerbuch between 1905 and 1909. It is known, however, that Feuz took the Kitchells up Terminal Peak in 1906; in 1907 he led Earle on Mount Douglas, and in 1908 found a new route for Forde on Mount Sir Donald.]

On July 17th 09 with Edward Feuz & his son Ernest I ascended Mt. Sir Donald, the first time this season. Edward Feuz is extremely careful both on rocks & snow & adapts his pace to his party in an excellent manner. He would be an excellent guide to make an extended trip with.

A. G. Priestley, Bradford, England.

On August 16th, 1909, Ed. Feuz, Sr., acted as guide on the first ascent of the North Tower of Mt. Goodsir.27 This has long been recognized as one of the most difficult peaks in the Rocky Mountains, and by some the summit has been pronounced inaccessible. We were on the mountain for 25½ hours, a great part of the time being passed under circumstances calculated to try the patience and temper of the guide to the utmost, but his courtesy and good humor were unfailing. It is unnecessary for me to say anything regarding his skill as a guide, which is so well known, but I may say that on this new and dangerous climb he never hesitated as to the proper route to take, nor was it necessary for us

to retrace a single step. This was my second climb with this guide, he having been with us when the new “chimney” route up Sir Donald28 was first climbed in 1908, and I have on both occasions found him to be all that could be desired both as a guide and as a companion.

J. P. Forde (Alpine Club of Canada), Revelstoke, B. C.

Glacier, B. C. Aug. 13, 1910. This year I renewed my climbing acquaintance with Edward Feuz, Sr., who with his son Edward were my guides on the first ascent of Mt. Douglas29 (north of Laggan), a very difficult mountain which had been attempted several times by strong parties of climbers. Feuz was also one of the guides of the party (of which I was a member) that climbed Mt. Hungabee (near Laggan) a week later. This peak was in poor condition and we were out for 23 hours.

It gives me pleasure to add an additional testimony to his great ability, patience and sagacity as a guide.

J. W. A. Hickson, Montreal.

[This is the final Canadian entry.]

1App., IX (1900), 195. Henry Grier Bryant (1859-1932) was an original member of the A.A.C., while Steele was a member of the A.C. (London).

2The second ascent and by a new route (over “Green’s Peak”), the first time it had climbed directly from Glacier House. C.A.J., XXX (1947), 64. Parker was an original member of the A.A.C.

3 The Dr. Rudolfrich of Wheeler’s Selkirk Range, p. 325. This was the first traverse of the mountain.

4The pre-eminence of Mt. Sir Sandford had not yet been established.

5A variant of the original (Huber-Sulzer) route. C.A.J., XXX (1947), 65.

6Apparently the first ascent by a woman. Mary Vaux was afterward Mrs. Walcott. Her brothers, George (1863-1927) and William (1872-1908), were original members of the A.A.C.

7The fifth ascent. The brothers Outram and Karl Schlunegger comprised a joint party. C.A.J., XXX (1947), 65.

8Benjamin Sayre Comstock (1859-1941) joined the A.A.C. in 1908.

9Walter Dwight Wilcox (1869-1949) was an original member of the A.A.C.

10August Severin Eggers (1862-1936) joined the A.A.C. in 1903.

11The tenth ascent. C.A.J., XXX (1947), 66. Arthur Oliver Wheeler (1860-1945) joined the A.A.C. in 1903.

12See Guidebook for ascents in 1885 and 1893.

13The eleventh ascent. C.A.J., XXX (1947), 66.

14 Miss MacLeod took part in the first ascent, 1893.

15Compare the published version, C.A.J., I (1907), 104.

16 James Chalmers Herdman (1856-1910) joined the A.A.C. in 1905.

17The 13th ascent, the second by a woman. F. Michel was second guide.

A.J., XXX (1947), 66.

18Then unascended.

19 C.A.J., XXX (1947), 66.

20Batcheller, Fay and Tewes, in 1903, made the first ascent of Mt. Daly in the Rockies.

21The first ascent by the N.W. arête. C.A.J., XXX (1947), 66. Tewes and Bohren also made first ascents of Haddo Peak and Mt. Huber in the Rockies.

22R. Hornby was apparently the first tourist to make two ascents of Mt. Sir Donald.

23 For the published account, see C.A.J., I (1907), 95.

24The third ascent by a woman.

25Hitherto unrecorded.

26 This ascent gave rise to the local legend that the mountain had been ascended by an Indian “prince.”

27For the published account, see C.A.J., II (1909), 61.

28C.A.J., XXX (1947), 67. This is the route now usually followed, avoiding the main stone-swept couloir of the old Vaux route.

29The present Mt. St. Bride. C.A.J., III (1911), 40.