United States, Wyoming: New Route on the S. Face of Grand Teton

Publication Year: 1949.

Wyoming: New Route on the S. Face of Grand Teton. On 3 July 1948 Fred Beckey, Ralph Widrig and Graham Matthews reached the Lower Saddle at 7.00 a.m., hoping to make a new route up the pronounced couloir between the complete Exum and the Middle S. ridges. In an hour they followed the dike passage and roped. In several hundred feet, close to the lower Exum ridge, difficulties began. They removed several pitons left by Petzoldt in a previous attempt (Appalachia, June 1940) and, led by Widrig in sneakers, climbed diagonally to the right on a high-angle face that required protective pitons. A sharp gully, and then a slab, proved difficult and demanded safety pitons. Matthews, in boots, climbed an overhanging ice gully; then Widrig led a steep fifth-class rope length, reaching the base of the prominent snow field at 11.30 a.m. Beckey led the rest of the way, in conditions more dangerous than difficult. On account of avalanche danger, belays had to be made against the rock wall. Once a 200-ft. lead was necessary. After reaching the summit at 1.30 p.m., the party descended the Owen route. An icy wind and quantities of verglas on the rock had made the entire ascent additionally severe.

F. B.