Mountain Climbing Guide to the Grand Tetons

Publication Year: 1948.

Mountain Climbing Guide to the Grand Tetons, by Henry Coulter and Merrill F. McLane. 66 pages, with a map and 13 sketches. Hanover, N. H.: Dartmouth Mountaineering Club, 1947. $2.00.

Since the publication of Fritiof Fryxell’s excellent work on the Tetons in 1932, a real need has arisen for an up-to-date mountain guide booklet giving accounts of the many new routes developed in the Tetons during subsequent years and a description of climbing conditions in the area. The vast increase of mountaineering and the immense popularity of the Tetons make this new pocket-sized guide very appropriate. Its description of the range and of general conditions there, and its suggestions concerning equipment and precautions, will be of interest and value both to those planning a first visit and to those who have been there before. The discussions of individual peaks and descriptions of the major routes are likewise of real interest and should materially help parties to find their own way. Of especial value are the route sketches, which are well done and add to the utility of the book. Of value, too, are the bibliographies of all routes described, giving data which, in most cases, will make available to those really interested the detailed information needed on the more difficult routes.

The authors state in their introduction that they have not attempted to describe every route nor to emulate the detailed descriptions of European guidebooks. This point could have been given greater emphasis, for some readers unfamiliar with the Tetons or unskilled in the art of route-finding might rely too heavily on the descriptions and regard them, despite the authors’ explanation, as foolproof tickets to the summits. Climbers who are familiar with some of the routes will perceive that the descriptions are extremely general, providing rough directions only; they will remember that sound mountaineering experience and route-finding ability are still essential. So long as readers recognize these limitations, this guidebook should prove a valuable aid to climbing in the Tetons.

The authors are much to be congratulated. It is to be hoped that their booklet will inspire similar publications about other major climbing areas in the country.

W. P. House