North America, Canada, Bugaboos Camp of the A.A.C.

Publication Year: 1947.

Bugaboos Camp of the A.C.C. The 1946 camp of the Alpine Club of Canada was held during the latter half of July in the Bugaboos of the Northern Purcells, W. of the main range of the Canadian Rockies and S.E. of the Selkirks. Main camp was located at the forks of the Bugaboo Creek, beside the mining cabin there. Transportation to camp was by means of two trucks that followed the very poor road for 27 miles from Spillimacheen on the Cran- brook-Golden highway. All food and camp dunnage, as well as personnel, was brought in by these trucks. The ride in to camp will be long remembered by those who took it, especially the crowd that came in on the first Sunday evening, through the rain and the soaked fir branches.

Three auxiliary camps were pitched some distance from the main camp. One was three miles up Bugaboo Creek, near the snout of Bugaboo Glacier. This camp was located in the forest and was well stocked and provisioned for the upper climbing camp by pack trains. Those who went up the so-called trail to this camp early in the first week had much trouble negotiating a flooded portion of the trail, but by the end of camp this section was well marked and easily travelled. A hard two hours above this camp was the “Boulder Camp,” just under Snowpatch Spire. This camp had three or four small sleeping tents, and all food had to be back-packed. Many of those in camp stayed here for one night or more, as the situation was good for climbs of Howser Spire, Bugaboo Spire, Mar- molata, Brenta Spire, Pigeon Spire, and even others. The third camp was located five miles up the S. fork of Bugaboo Creek, just under Bugaboo Pass. From this camp each of the five Quintet Peaks was climbed, four of them for the first time.

Ascents were made during camp of the following peaks: each of the Quintets by many persons; several peaks of Crescent Spire by 44 persons in six parties; “Anniversary Peak” by 43 persons in five parties; East Post by 16 persons in two parties; Howser Peak by five persons in one party; Brenta Spire by six persons in two parties; Pigeon Spire by 49 persons in ten parties (this peak was climbed on July 24th by no fewer than 22 persons in five different parties—quite a group of climbers for one peak!) ; Marmolata by 15 persons in three parties; Howser Spire by ten persons in two parties, each party establishing a new route; Bugaboo Spire by five persons in two parties, one party establishing a new route around the gendarme; Taurus Peak (first ascent) by three persons in one party. Further information concerning the new routes on Bugaboo Spire, Howser Spire and Taurus Peak will be found below.

Among A. A. C. members present were Pres. J. C. Case, Vice- Pres. B. B. Gilman, Sec. H. S. Hall, Jr., F. D. Ayres, J. F. Brett, J. E. Brett, E. C. Brooks, Florence Davoll, Beatrice de Lacy, Margaret Finley, Gen. W. W. Foster, C. P. Fuller, F. E. Gaebelein, Ethne Gale, Lillian Gest, E. R. Gibson, S. B. Hendricks, R. C. Hind, Marjorie Hurd, H. S. Kingman, A. H. MacCarthy, J. C. Oberlin, Polly Prescott, H. E. Sampson and D. M. Woods.

D. M. W.