American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Selkirk Range of British Columbia, 1945

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1947

Selkirk Range of British Columbia, 1945. In August 1945 A. J. Kauffman, II, with several companions, made a number of ascents in the Southern Selkirks, concerning which the following notes have been received:

“We made a dozen or so climbs, including the first ascent of Mt. Swanzy by the N. ridge. This climb is shorter but technically more difficult than the N.W. arête of Mt. Sir Donald, involving excellent rock climbing as well as ice and snow work. The approach was made over Sapphire Col from Glacier, thence to Lily Glacier, over Lily Col and up snow slopes to a point about 8400 ft. on the N. ridge of Mt. Swanzy. Below that point the ridge does not appear to afford much good climbing. The last 50 ft. of the climb provide a rather difficult and spectacular climax. [N. Brewster, Mr. and Mrs. A. J. Kauffman, II, M. M. Miller. Glacier to Sapphire Col, 2 h.; thence to summit, 9.5 h. A fast party should make the ascent in 9 h. and return to Glacier in 6 h.]

“We made what is believed to be the first traverse of Selwyn- Häsler-Feuz-Michel Pks., from Glacier Circle to Donkin Pass, ascending the E. ridge of Mt. Selwyn. Franzelin traversed Häsler, Feuz and Michel Pks. in 1908, but there is no record of all four summits having been done in one climb. This is also believed to be the second ascent of Michel Pk. Return to Glacier was made up the flat Bishops Glacier and over rocks E. of Deville icefall. [Mr. and Mrs. A. J. Kauffman, II, L. Sosman, R. D. Watson. Glacier Circle to Mt. Selwyn, 8 h. Thence to Donkin Pass, 7 h., where a bivouac was made. Total time for trip, 35 h.]

“An attempt was made to reach the Battle Range after learning that a group of prospectors had cut a trail from Flat Creek over Flat Creek Pass and down Incomappleux River past Battle Creek. There was once a trail connecting Flat Creek with Arrow Lakes, but it is now completely overgrown. The prospectors had cut a good trail as far as the base of Mt. McBean, but five miles of almost impossible bush intervened between this point and Battle Creek. We made the ascent of a little unnamed peak next to Tomatin Pk., and climbed a ridge from which we photographed unnamed mountains in the Van Home névé . [Mr. and Mrs. A. J. Kauffman, II, Mrs. F. Schiesser, L. Sosman.]”

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