American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Wyoming, Mt. Helen

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1947

Mt. Helen. A new ascent by the steep N.W. ridge was made by Hans Kraus and Roger Wolcott on 4 August 1946, from a camp on Upper Titcomb Lake. This ridge seen in profile is high and precipitous. The route was reported as grade five in difficulty.

A number of peaks not so well known as those listed above were climbed early in the season by camp employees in order to round out needed information on the region. “Sunbeam Mountain” (13,200 ft.), between Turret and Horse Ridge, bore evidence of at least two previous climbs, as did the East Sentinel (Heapsteep Mountain, 12,300 ft.), which stands half a mile W., overlooking Dinwoody Glacier. Peaks 11 and 12 (Flagstone, 13,200 ft., and Pedestal, 13,100 ft.) bore summit cairns but no records. Downs Mountain (13,344 ft.), climbed by Roger Beck and Gibson Reynolds in late August, possessed neither cairn nor records, but a long pole on top indicated a visit by a survey party several years ago.

Good skiing conditions prevailed throughout the season on the Gannett Glacier, where 3000- to 3500-ft. slopes were available in June and early July. Clifton Taylor served as ski guide and instructor. Climbing guides included Don Winterborne, Robert Parker and Phil D. Smith.

P. D. S.

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