American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Wyoming, Wind River Range, 1946: Gannett-Dinwoody Group

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1947

Wind River Range, 1946: Gannett-Dinwoody Group. Nearly 200 climbers and skiers visited the Gannett Peak Camp in upper Dinwoody Canyon during the 1946 season. In August, which proved to be the popular climbing month, 80 attended the Colorado Mountain Club Outing, which was held during the first two weeks, and 38 participated in the first Annual Outing of the Chicago Mountaineering Club, which opened immediately afterward. From the camp owned and operated by Floyd Wilson near the Din- woody and Gannett Glaciers, climbers were able to reach the highest peaks in the range within a comparatively short hiking period. Except for Mt. Doublet, ascents were reported on all the near-by major peaks N. of and along the Continental Divide.

A great deal of attention has been given to Gannett Peak, the highest in Wyoming, but no new routes were reported. Between 20 and 30 parties reached the summit, most of them by the well known route which begins at Dinwoody Glacier and passes around the “Goose Neck” on the upper E. ridge. One party of 30 (C. M. C.) completed the ascent by this route, with Carl Blaurock and C. A. Peregrine leading. At least seven parties made long traverses of the peak from the Gannett Glacier over to the Dinwoody side.

One important climb, probably a first ascent, was that of the Bear’s Tooth (12,200 ft.) from North Dinwoody Canyon by Don Winterborne and Robert Parker. After overcoming several difficulties on the N.E. face and reaching the top, they used an easier route toward the W. for descent. This striking peak is well known to' residents of the Wind River Valley, although its name does not appear on either the forest or the topographic map.

First ascents were made of the three “English Dames,” the most imposing towers on the Doublet-Warren ridge, by Hans Kraus and Roger Wolcott. The W. tower, nearest Doublet, proved to be the most difficult of the three—grade six.1 One pitch of 30 ft. was artificial. The middle tower was somewhat easier—grade five. A rusty piton part way up the third tower indicated a previous attempt by unknown climbers. Delphine Wilde joined the party on the ascent of the third tower. The traverse of the three “English Dames” was made on 15 August 1946.

A number of new routes were reported also on the following peaks:

1For this note, additional data on the “English Dames,” Mt. Woodrow Wilson, Sphinx and Mt. Helen have been supplied by Roger Wolcott. The system of grading difficulty is that used in the Alps and Dolomites. Roughly, grade three is moderate rock climbing; grade four is difficult, the obvious point at which one wishes to change from boots to sneakers; grade five is very difficult; and grade six is considered the hardest that can be climbed. A detailed description of the climbs appeared in Appalachia for December 1946.—Ed.

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