North America, United States, Washington, Nooksack Tower: First Ascent

Publication Year: 1947.

Nooksack Tower: First Ascent. Nooksack Tower (8500 ft.) is a very prominent upthrust on the E. ridge of Mt. Shuksan, somewhat resembling in position the Aig. Noire de Péteret on Mont Blanc. The climb has repulsed attempts since 1939.

On 5 July 1946 Fred Beckey and Clifford Schmidtke left camp (3000 ft.) on the N fork of the Nooksack River and by a previously reconnoitered route reached the bergschrund at the foot of the final N. face (6500 ft.) at 10.30 a. m. Schmidtke worked over the bergschrund, and Beckey kicked steps 800 ft. up a 50° ice couloir on the N. face. Snow conditions were dangerous, and occasional rock falls harassed the party. The climbers then worked westward into a hidden rock trough and donned tennis shoes. The final 1200 ft. involved fourth-class climbing along the north arête. Care and continual belaying were necessary. One safety piton was used. The pair reached the summit at 3.30 p. m. and then had an uneventful descent, rappelling from pitons placed in the rock wall at the flank of the couloir. They reached camp in the valley at 10 p. m.

F. B.