Guidebook to the Interior Ranges. Professor F. K. Butters has kindly contributed the following notes:

1. So far as I am aware the first traverse of Uto from S. to N. was made in 1911 by H. Palmer, T. G. Longstaff and myself. It was made on the same day as the trip made by Miss Cummins, Miss Finlayson and the guides Feuz, noted in brackets at the bottom of p. 14. We were all together in the Uto-Sir Donald col. Then the other party descended the E, slope below the col, and we went directly up the Uto arête, descending by Route 1. This was only a few weeks after Merle-Smith’s ascent by Route 2.

2. A fifth route up Mt. Bonney is from the valley of Smart Creek. Palmer and I, with Ern. Feuz, did it in 1915 the day after we climbed Mt. Smart. It is probably the easiest route to the summit since the scree slopes toward the head of Smart Creek valley lead directly up to the snowfield on the W. side of Mt. Bonney, and that is very easy going.

3. Route 4 (p. 28) up Häsler Peak seems to be merely a restatement of Route 1, and likewise (p. 29) Route 1 and 2 on Mt. Selwyn are identical. The early accounts put too much emphasis on the head-wall of the Dawson-Fox amphitheatre. I suppose it can be nasty under some conditions, but it wasn’t bad when I was there. On the other hand, the snowfield between the top of this wall and the top of the ridge that runs out toward Mt. Fox contains the largest hidden crevasses that I have ever seen, and also about the most thoroughly hidden. If it ever becomes a popular route there will sooner or later be a bad spill there.

4. Route 2 under Mt. Sugarloaf is quite impossible. The “W. end of the Bishops Range” is at least 10 miles from Sugarloaf with two or three high mountains (Wheeler, Grand, etc.) in between. From the east end of the Bishops Range it is of course possible to cross the Deville névé, and descend the northern Grand Glacier, and so arrive at the same place at the foot of the Grand Glaciers that one starts from in Route 1. This in itself is an all day trip (I did it once in the opposite direction) and is not at all a route on Mt. Sugarloaf, but rather a quite sporty and difficult method of reaching that rather remote mountain.

Mr. M. P. Bridgland states that Ursus Minor Mtn. (p. 47) was first ascended by the Topographical Survey in 1902, and Mt. Copeland (Monashee Range; p. 138) in 1910.