American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Alberta, Rocky Mountains of Canada, Mt. Blakiston

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1946

Mt. Blakiston. A cairn was found on the summit; no details of first ascent. From camp beside Blakiston Brook (6.30 a.m.) through trees by river cross and ascend side valley past a waterfall into a high corrie. Turn right above waterfall and proceed up grassy shoulder (until 9.20 a.m.) to point where grass gives way to rock. This is the ridge which is at the right-hand end of the mountain as seen from the Waterton Park road at the bottom of the valley. About 1000' of rock and scree now separates one from the summit ridge, which is reached without difficulty. A direct traverse along the summit ridge is prevented by a vertical step of about 200' On left (S.) side, the face is vertical but on the right it slopes down at a fairly easy angle, and it is possible to descend and traverse around the vertical rocks. Thence up rocks and snow couloirs to the ridge about 300' below the summit, and from there zigzagging ledges and more snow couloirs to the summit, which is a narrow ridge with cornice on S. (June 8th).

In the neighborhood of Mt. Blakiston there are few other Canadian peaks worth climbing, many being rounded domes with pony trails to their summits.

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