American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Notes on Contributors

  • Notes
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1946

Charles S. Houston: Dr. Houston, well known to American Alpine Journal readers for his part in expeditions to Mts. Foraker, Nanda Devi and K2, was until recently Lieutenant-Commander Houston, U.S.N.R. During the war a flight surgeon in charge of various aspects of physiological research at the U. S. Navy Research Laboratory at Pensacola, Florida, he directed the Navy’s "Operation Everest” and other pioneer experiments in tracing the effects of altitude on the blood.

Albert H. Jackman: Lt. Col. Jackman, long an advocate of mountain troop training, served with the 10th Mountain Division in Italy. Previously he had been the War Department observer on the Wood Yukon Expedition (1941) and the Army Ground Forces observer on the U. S. Army Alaskan Test Expedition to Mt. McKinley in 1942. In 1945-46 he served as observer on "Operation Muskox” in Arctic Canada.

Hugh W. Evans: Sgt. Evans, a graduate of Phillips Exeter Academy and currently a student at the Colorado School of Mines, served with the 85th Infantry Regiment of the 10th Mountain Division. He was decorated with the Silver Star for gallantry in action during the engagement he here describes.

Wilson P. Ware: Capt. Wilson Ware, Yale graduate, served as intelligence officer of the 1st Battalion, 86th Infantry, 10th Mountain Division, and took considerable part in planning the action of his regiment when it attacked Riva Ridge. Subsequently he was severely wounded and spent many months in hospital.

E. R. Gibson: Major Gibson, well known Canadian mountaineer, was the Canadian Army observer on the U. S. Army Alaskan Test Expedition, and later had major responsibility in the training of the Lovat Scouts in the Jasper Area. The great success of the Lovat Scouts some months later in breaking the Gothic Line in Italy and operating with great skill in the snowy Apennines is tribute to their Canadian winter training.

William P. House: This well known American climber served as a civilian with the Quartermaster General’s Office, U. S. Army, during the war, with tours of duty in Iceland, Greenland, and Arctic Canada. Being charged with the development of equipment for mountain troops, he performed his duties admirably, despite difficulties which he estimates lightly in his article. Recently he was the Army Service Forces observer on "Operation Muskox.”

Bradford Washburn: The director of the New England Museum of Natural History served throughout much of the war as Special Assistant to the Chief, Army Air Forces Personal Equipment Laboratory, Wright Field. As such he was largely responsible for the development of the present issue excellent cold weather clothing for air crews operating at sub-zero temperatures. Casualties from frostbite during air operations made his work of utmost importance.

Weldon F. Heald: During the war the issue of clothing to U. S. troops was changed from a hit-or-miss system to a scientific arrangement of climate zones based on maps prepared by Major Heald. The advantages of climatological topography to civilian mountaineers and travelers as well as to the military will be seen by reading his article.

H. Adams Carter: As Adams Carter shows in his article, he began intelligence work on mountain troop problems early in 1941 and continued on the broader phases of this problem throughout the war. In 1945 he visited the German General Staff and the Japanese General Staff on special intelligence surveys for the Quartermaster General and the Chief of Intelligence, War Department General Staff. He is an authority on mountain troop operations.

J. Monroe Thorington: Dr. Thorington, the retiring editor of the American Alpine Journal and honorary member of the Alpine Club of London and the Alpine Club of Canada, needs no introduction to our readers.

Robert H. Bates: After more than four years in the U. S. Army, Lt. Col. Bates now shares editing the American Alpine Journal with Lt. David A. Robertson, Jr., who during the war served in the U. S. Naval Reserve.

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