American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Rocky Mountains of Canada, Stairway and Aries Pks.

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1945

Stairway and Aries Pks. 1944 first ascents by Mr. and Mrs. D. Measuroll, J. M. Thorington, E. Feus, Jr. From Howse Pass, camp was established at timberline in the N. fork of Ebon creek, this stream being the true source of Blaeberry River. Stairway Pk. was ascended in 4 h., following which a descent into the S. fork of the creek led to the ascent of Aries Pk. Total time from camp, 13 h. Owing to improved trails it is now possible to take horses from the Saskatchewan forks to Howse Pass in six hours.

The six peaks of the watershed between Mt. Breaker and Howse Peak have been referred to (A. A. J. iv, 495), Aries Pk. (9900 ft.) being the highest. The canoe route there described is now thought to be inadvisable, since the ascent from Mistaya Lake will at best bring one to the Breaker-Ebon col, from which a considerable descent and a long round are necessary to reach the remaining summits.

Aiguille Pk. appears to be the most difficult of the group and may require artificial aids. From Ebon Creek a grand and evident new route can be made on Howse Pk.

Ebon Pk., Midway Pk. and Mt. Synge are not attractive objectives, having ugly shale slopes on their western sides, although rising boldly above the main eastern escarpment.

The summits ascended are splendid viewpoints, the watershed from Columbia to Assiniboine being visible, the Clearwater peaks, Bugaboos and southern Selkirks being included in the panorama. The Freshfield and Forbes-Lyell areas are seen to particular advantage, while the eastern precipice above Cirque and Chephren Lakes is spectacular.

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