AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org


M.P.O. 1314, Edmonton, Alta., Dec. 9, 1943. Dear Dr. Thorington:

I’ve just written to H. E. G. Tyndale, Editor of A. J., suggesting that as soon after the war as possible there should be a joint Anglo-American Expedition to Mt. Everest. This should, however, fulfil two conditions:

A party not above eight in number.

A party of friends used to climbing together.

A collection of “experts,” however expert individually, will never climb the mountain. The team should train as a team in the Alps before embarking for India and give equipment a thorough testing. I am all against parochialism and international rivalry in mountaineering. The Germans introduced it both to the Alps and Himalayas and I hope post-war days will see this spirit dead.

What could be a better or more worthy fulfilment of our joint ideals in this war than that an American and a British mountaineer should stand together on the highest point of Earth ?

It was tragic for me that I was unable to attend your Annual Dinner. I am hoping to hear from Colonel Head all about it.

Sincerely yours,

Frank Smythe.

American Alpine Club, 140 E. 46th St., New York City, Dec. 29, 1943.

Dear Mr. Smythe:

We heartily reciprocate the plans and feeling expressed in your letter. The efforts that American mountaineers made on Nanda Devi and K2, in addition to the more recent ascent of Mt. McKinley, will, we hope, justify our acceptance of such an invitation under official conditions. During your recent sojourn in Washington you have met some of the best of our men and have seen our tested equipment, which I am sure in post-war days will be at our disposal.

We had a successful meeting in New York, as Colonel Head will tell you, and our new President, Mr. John Case (A.C.), is admirably fitted to conduct future negotiations in connection with expeditionary plans.

Sincerely yours,

J. Monroe Thorington.