American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Ascents in Bolivia

  • Notes
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1943

Ascents in Bolivia. Our former contributor, Mr. Joseph Prem, sends a remarkable list of his ascents in 1939, followed by an article which will appear in the next issue of the Journal:

June 30: First ascent of the Cerro de Santa Vela Cruz (5600 m.), main peak of the Santa Vela Cruz Range, which lies S. E. of the Quimza Cruz Range. Ascent was made solo over the N. N. W. ridge, starting from Huanãcota village on the W. side of the range.

August 24–27: Attempt on Mt. Sajama (6550 m.), with Piero Ghiglione, starting from Sajama village on the W. side of the mountain. August 24; from the village to base camp. August

25; base camp to high camp on N. W. ridge. August 26; high camp over N. W. ridge to summit cupola and over the same to a point about 150 m. below the summit. Return to camp. August 27; high camp to Sajama village.

September 11: First ascent and traverse of Cerro San Juan (Cerro Altarani; 5750 m.) in the Quimza Cruz Range. From Monte Blanco mine to Cerro San Juan over the S. W. ridge of the latter. Descent over N. W. ridge of the San Juan and Hualla- tani Glacier. With Wilfried Kuehm (died on Illimani).

September 13: First ascent of Huaynakunukollo (Pik Grillo; 5850 m.), from Monte Carlo mine over Huallatani Glacier and S. W. ridge. With Wilfried Kuehm.

September 18: First ascent of Jachakunukollo (5950 m.), highest peak in the Quimza Cruz Range, from Chojñacota mine over Chojñacota Glacier and S. W. ridge. With Wilfried Kuehm.

October 2–5: First ascent of Mt. Sajama (6550 m.), highest peak of Bolivia. Start from Cosapa village on the E. S. E. side of the mountain. With Wilfried Kuehm. October 2; from Cosapa to camp on the E. flank of Mt. Sajama. October 3; reconnaissance. October 4; Ascent. From camp to saddle in the S. E. ridge, obliquely upwards over the S. face to the S. W. ridge and over the same to the summit and back to camp. October 5; return to Cosapa.

Mr. Prem requests us to note the following in connection with his article in A.A.J. iv, 29:

Page 29, line 10, read “Northern Payachata (6240 m.)” for “N. Payachata (6420 m.).”

P. 29, 1. 17, read “Huayna Potosi” for “Huama Potosi.”

P. 29, 1. 26, read “is composed of granite, in the S. E. of slate” for “composed of slate.”

P. 30, 1. 12, read “Chojnacota” for “Chejñacota.”

P. 32, 1. 3 from below “Gollpa” for “Gellpa.”

P. 33, 1. 10 read “paja” for maja.”

P. 33, 1. 11 read “Queñua” for “Queñea.”

P. 33, lines 12–14, read “Later we followed a valley leading toward Mt. Pomarape (Northern Payachata), crossed a ridge and ascended a second valley and finally, leaving this one too, reached the Payachata Valley, coming down between the two Payachatas” for “later we followed a second valley leading toward Mt. Pomarape (Northern Payachata), crossed a ridge and ascended a second valley coming down between the two Payachatas.”

P. 33, 1. 6, from below, read “in the deepest notch” for “in the notch.”

P. 34, 1. 7, omit the words “or Sajama.”

P. 34, 1. 8, after the word “mountain” insert “than N. Payachata or Sajama.” P. 34, 1. 16 after the words “Tufa plateau” insert “where I spent a few days.” P. 34, 1. 18 read “Chacarillas” for “Chacaillas.”

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