Three generations of Americans on the Matterhorn. In A. A. J. ii, 511, 513, we recorded ascents of Monte Rosa and Matterhorn in 1881 by Henry White Warren, bishop of the Methodist Episcopal church, with Peter Knubel. Rev. Warren’s interest in mountains had begun at an earlier date, and in his book, Sights and Insights (1874), he describes an ascent of the Breithorn and mentions that he had crossed 14 Alpine passes. On the Matterhorn, at least, where Peter Truffer was second guide, he was accompanied by his son, Henry Mather Warren (1858-1942; b. Boston; Wesleyan ’80), who later was the first to take a sectional boat across Chilkoot Pass during the gold rush of ’98.

More than 20 years afterward, Mr. H. M. Warren returned to Zermatt with his two sons, one of them now Lt.-Comdr. Richard F. Warren, U. S. N. They ascended the Matterhorn to a point above the shoulder and were within several hundred feet of the top when storm and illness of one of the party compelled retreat. This is told in Mr. H. M. Warren’s privately-printed book, To and Fro (1908), which contains an excellent photo of Knubel and Truffer in their later days.