American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Andes, Peru

  • Notes
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1942


Peru. To correct an error of omission (A. A. J. iv, 176) we wish to state that Coropuna was ascended on October 15th, 1911, by our fellow-member Hiram Bingham, who recorded the details in “Harper’s Mag.” cxxiv (March, 1912) and in his book, Inca Land (Houghton Mifflin Co., 1922). The altitude is stated to be 21,703 ft. The purpose of the ascent was to erect a signal which could be used in connection with a triangulation along the 73rd meridian, Bandelier’s book, Titicaca and Koati, having stated that it exceeded Aconcagua in elevation and was, therefore, in all probability the culminating point of the continent.

Bingham’s companions were H. L. Tucker, a member of Parker’s 1910 Mt. McKinley expedition, Corporal Gamorra of Are- quipa, and Prof. Alejandro Coello, director of the Colegio Nacional at Chuquibamba. “The view from the top was desolate in the extreme. We were in the midst of a great volcanic desert dotted with isolated peaks covered with snow and occasional glaciers .… not an atom of green to be seen anywhere.…While we were glad we were the first to reach the top, we were all agreed we would never do it again.” The party made base camp at 17,300 ft. and advanced camps at 18,450 ft. and 20,000 ft., reaching the summit from the latter height in 6.5 hours.

Bingham gives other elevations as follows: Mt. Veronica, 19,342 ft.; Mt. Salcantay, 20,565 ft.; Mt. Soray, 19,435 ft.; Mt. Panta, 18,590 ft.; Mt. Soiroccocha, 18,197 ft.—all in the vicinity of Panticalla Pass.

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