Whymper in Canada. It is not often remembered that the conqueror of the Matterhorn made a lecture tour in the United States in the autumn of 1900. On arrival in New York he learned from Cornelius Hanbury of the death of the latter’s sister, Charlotte, in her seventy-first year. Whymper first met her in 1899, but they had corresponded for many years, the lady having visited Chamonix as early as 1856 and made minor ascents. Although she was by ten years Whymper’s senior, he was attracted by her charm and energy, and gave her family name to a Canadian peak above Ice River when he was there in 1901.

In earlier editions of the Guidebook it was stated, based on an article by Whymper, that the ascent of The Mitre was made by all four of Whymper’s guides. However, Klucker says in his autobiography that only Pollinger and he took part in this ascent.

Smythe, in his biography of Whymper (1940) says in regard to the 1904 ascent of Crowsnest Mtn., “it appears that he sent one of his assistants and two Swiss guides to reconnoitre the mountain and they, finding the ascent possible, climbed the mountain much to their employer’s annoyance.” The assistant was Tom Wilson and one of the guides was C. Kaufmann.

J. M. T.