American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Rocky Mountains of Canada, Unnamed

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1941

Unnamed (10,283 ft.). N. buttress of Cataract Pass. Guidebook, page 162. 1940 first ascent by Miss L. Gest, Miss P. Prescott, C. Häsler. From motor highway 6.3 miles S. of 1938 A. C. C. campsite. Cross Nigel Creek on logs at old road camp. Ascend through open timber and dry stream bed to timberline. Traverse sidehill and cross gully to far slope of objective. Proceed up grassy slopes and shale (4 h.) to succession of towers forming S. W. ridge. Traverse around first large tower by descending slightly to left, return to ridge and continue over several towers. Before the final tower, traverse around to the right and avoid an impossible looking cliff. Return to ridge by easy ledges and follow narrow slabby crest to summit. Descent by gully on S. face to basin between peak and S. peak (10,182 ft.), traversing above timber to regain route of ascent. Shorter route of descent would be straight down to Panther Falls, but crossing of stream there is uncertain. Ascent 7 h. 40 m.; descent 4.5 h.

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