AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

North America, United States, Wyoming, Wyoming Rockies 1940, Wind River Range

Wind River Range

Gannett Peak was climbed by several new ways this past summer. Henry Coulter, Beckett Howorth, and Charles Webb ascended by way of the N. E. snow face to a saddle on the N. ridge just below the big step. From here the N. ridge was followed to the summit. This is apparently a variant of the route made by Hall, Henderson and Underhill in 1929, and possibly preferable at the present time because of changed snow conditions. The direct ascent of the N. ridge was made on July 16th by Walter A. Wood, Jr. and Floyd Wilson. Leaving a fly camp at timberline about 20 minutes below the Gannett Glacier at 6.30, they arrived at the Gannett-Koven Col at 9.30. From here they traversed S. below the buttress and attacked the bergschrund about midway across the face at 10.15 a.m. Crossing the schrund and climbing the first 50 ft. of face required one and a quarter hours as the former was wide open and difficult. Thence up steep but excellent rock to the N. ridge and either up this or adjacent to this to the top of the buttress, which was reached at 1.15 p.m. The climb was completed by the easy rocks of the N. ridge to the summit, where the party arrived at 2.10 p.m. The descent was by the usual route to the Dinwoody Glacier.

Mt. Woodrow Wilson was climbed for the fourth time this summer by a party composed of Henry Coulter and Beckett Howorth from a camp at the timberline on the S. fork of the Din- woody. The ascent was made by way of the Dinwoody Glacier and the N. couloir on the mountain.

Turret Peak was climbed by Henry Coulter, Beckett Howorth and Charles Webb who followed a route closely parallel to that of the first ascent by Blaurock and Ellingwood. From Dinwoody Glacier, they ascended the ridge to the right of the scree couloir leading to the saddle N. of the peak. From here they traversed to the left and entered a narrow couloir on the N. side and reached the notch between the N. tower and a subsidiary W. tower. Continuing the ascent just below the crest of the ridge, the N. tower was turned to the right into the couloir between the summit towers. This couloir was followed to the summit ridge and the S. (higher) tower ascended.

The Sphinx was climbed again on August 17th, by John M. Maguire and Floyd Wilson. They traversed from S. to N. below the E. face, thereby avoiding the bergschrund which had stopped several earlier attempts and avoided the slabs of the E. face and traverse of the ridge. They completed the ascent by a well-defined couloir which leads directly to the summit, probably close to or possibly a part of the route of descent of the original climb.

In the southern part of the range a number of new climbs were made by a party consisting of Orrin H. Bonney, Frank Garnick and Notsie Garnick.

Camels Hump, a peak immediately N. W. of Lizard Head, was named and climbed by the party on August 6th from a camp at Lonesome Lake. The N. W. summit had apparently been reached before, and this is probably the peak reached by J. I. Hoffman alone on August 16th, 1931. They then climbed the N. E. pinnacle which is the highest of the group.

Lizard Head was climbed on the same day as the Camels Hump by continuing along the ridge from the latter peak to a large opening between the E. and W. faces of Lizard Head. This point was passed at 12.30 and the summit was reached at 3 p.m. Records of two previous ascents were found here. One dated September 3rd, 1933, was almost illegible, but the name Drummond could be deciphered, the other was dated August 22nd, 1934, and indicated an ascent by G. L. Burnett and Nat Walker, grazing survey crew from the Washakie Trail.

Popo Agie Tower at the head of Lonesome Lake was the most difficult climb made by the party. On August 8th, after recon- noitering the peak, the party arrived at the S. shoulder at 1 p.m. Starting from the corner where the shoulder reaches the perpendicular walls, they ascended the ledges on the southerly side of the peak in an easterly direction across the face. From the end of the last ledge it was necessary to traverse 4-5 ft. across the face to a chimney which was climbed a short distance to a point about 150 ft. from the top where it was possible to turn westerly on another ledge. From this a break in the wall led to the summit which was reached at 2.55 p.m.

K. A. H.