Absaroka Range

An ascent of Pilot Peak (11,740 ft.) located in N. W. Park County, Wyo., was made September 15th by George Haas, John Makowski, and the writer from a camp directly W. of Index Peak and 5 miles S. E. of Cooke City, Mont. The approach (explored in 1936 by Haas) to the final 250 ft. may be described as leading southward from the lower W. shoulder of the peak on a nearly continuous bench to two pinnacles under the S. face, then diagonally upward to a narrow ledge (a key point) and so northward to the upper W. shoulder overlooking the lofty N. face. The actual climb began on the S. W. face, 200 ft. S. of this point where a block leans against the cliff, followed up steep but not difficult rock for 60 ft., to the right from under the overhanging wall on a narrow ledge for 30 ft. to a widening, then straight up through a 65-ft. (shallow) chimney overhanging half-way. The party spent more than two hours attempting to evade this point by trials farther to the right and it was climbed only as the last resort. Above, another narrow ledge furnished a good stance with a belay through a sling and easy access (right) to a large detached block (passed inside) from which a broken slope ran up to the summit. No evidence at all could be found of a 1932 or other party on the 6 x 14 ft. top and the two lower points nearby were also searched without success. After leaving a cairn and record we descended quite easily for 200 ft. to the rim of the S. face and E. corner and looked for a possibility for descent, but not enough below could be seen so the route of ascent was retraced on two 80 and two 50-ft. rappels. It was long after dark when we finally stumbled into camp for a much needed rest.

The rock on Pilot is far better than on Index (climbed the year before) and although brittle affords fairly reliable climbing. The route used was much the easiest possibility seen on the trip or by Haas on three previous trips, one of which followed entirely around the W. and S. faces at 11,300 ft. Perhaps when Pilot Peak is better known and other routes explored it will be regarded as one of the most formidable in the American Rockies.

A week later (September 22nd) Haas and the writer climbed Abiathar Peak (10,800 ft.) in northeastern Yellowstone Park by following its 2-mile S. ridge to the summit. An easy route eastward into the head of the beautiful canyon carrying Amphitheater Creek to the Soda Fork was used for return to the highway below Ice-box Canyon. That this attractive peak had survived seventy years of Yellowstone exploration might be attributed to its lack of any very obvious route except the S. ridge. The ridge itself from the Soda Fork valley appears to be quite broken.

Phil. D. Smith.