Approach to the Hills, by C. F. Meade. 8 vo., 265 pages, with numerous illustrations from photographs, two maps and index. New York: E. P. Dutton & Co., 1940. Price $2.75.

Twenty-three essays make up this book of experiences by a famous climber. Not all of them are his own, for he begins with a chapter on Antoine de Ville’s ascent of Mont Aiguille in Dauphiny in 1492. This was made by order of Charles VIII of France, and was the earliest climb on which artificial aids were extensively used. But the great guides whom the author knew best, Blanc Greffier and Pierre Blanc, needed no such assistance and would have despised it. The biographical sketches of the two form entertaining chapters, and are followed by the author’s description of his ascent of the Guglia di Brenta with Blanc in 1909. We then have detailed accounts of some of the modern assault climbs, on the Dru, Eigerwand, Grandes Jorasses and Watzman. Mr. Meade adds the story to his exciting balloon voyage from Paris to Mont Blanc, and a charming account of bringing a Christmas tree to the children at Bonneval-sur-Arc.

The second half of the book deals with Himalayan wanderings, notably the attempts on Kamet, in which Meade took a leading part some thirty years ago.

J. M. T.