American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Andes

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1940


A German party consisting of Dr. Kinzl (leader), Hans Schweizer, Karl Schmid, Siegfried Rohrer and Walter Brecht was active in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru this last summer. Schweizer, Schmid and Rohrer completed from the W. the ascent of Nevado Contrahierbas (6036 m.), which climb had been attempted by the 1932 expedition. These same three with Brecht afterwards made the first ascent of Palcaraju (6150 m.). Later Ranrapalca (6165 m.) was climbed.

A group from the Deutscher Ausflugsverein in Santiago spent Easter in the Colinas group in Chile and made the ascent of several peaks in that group about 4300 m.

In Ecuador Gottfried Hirtz and Wilfrid Kuhn made the ascent of the volcano Iliniza (5305 m.).

German Expedition to Peru. Participants: Dr. Kinzl, leader ; Hans Schweizer, Walter Brecht, Karl Schmid, Siegfried Rohrer, Heckler. Ascents were made of Nevado Contrahierbas (6036 m.), Palcaraju (6150 m.), Ranrapalca (6165 m.), Tokharaju (6100 m.), Pambaraju (6300 m.), Hualcan (6150 m.), Huascaran (N. peak, 6655 m.). At the end of the expedition, while doing mapping work in the Huancayo district of Central Peru, Schweizer and Rohrer, with Diener, a Swiss resident of Lima, were killed in an avalanche.

German-Italian Party in Ecuador. Participants: Wilfried Kühn, Piero Ghiglione, Formaggio, F. Hirtz. Ascents were made of Iliniza (5305 m.), Cayambe (5849 m.), Pailacajas (first ascents of peaks 5100 m. and 5070 m.), Chimborazo (6310 m.), the latter by a new route on the S. side. The party is reported to have gone on to Bolivia for further climbing.

Later advice states that Ghiglione, Kühn and Formaggio made the ascent of Cerro Altar on July 20th, and four days later climbed Chimborazo. In Bolivia, Ghiglione ascended Illimani on August 13th with a Dr. Fritz, by way of the S. W. ridge. On August 26th, Ghiglione and a German engineer named Prenn made the first ascent of Sajama (21,500 ft.), highest mountain in Bolivia, following the S. W. ridge.

K. A. H.

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