American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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Asia, Himalayas

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1940

A Swiss expedition was active in the Himalayas this summer (1939). A small party consisting of André Roch and Ernst Huber with the guides Fritz Steuri and David Zogg made several noteworthy climbs in Garhwal and surveyed the mountains around the Kosa and Rataban Glaciers. On July 5th, Roch, Zogg, and Steuri made the first ascent of Dunagiri (21,170 ft.). A month later, on August 7th, Huber, with two Sherpas, Nima and Muchulia, made the ascent of Rataban (20,100 ft.). Later in August the climbers effected the ascent of Ghori Parbat (22,027 ft.), profiting from a previous reconnaissance made by Huber and his party earlier in the summer. Early in September, while exploring the Badrinath Glacier, one of the advanced camps was destroyed by an avalanche and despite prompt rescue attempts, two native porters were killed. The expedition returned shortly afterward.

A small Polish expedition of the High Mountain Club of the Polish Tatra Society made the first party of that nationality in the Himalayas. The party consisting of A. Karpinski (leader), S. Bernadzikiewicz, Dr. J. Z. Bujak, and J. Klarner was also operating in Garhwal. Botanical and entomological aims were carried out and the party made a fine collection of butterflies and flowers. On July 2nd the first ascent was made on the E. peak of Nanda Devi, the objective of the expedition. On July 19th, Karpinski and Bernadzikiewicz, assisted by three porters, established a high camp above the Milam Glacier, the porters returning to the lower camp the same day. The following day the other two members of the party came up in support and found the campsite covered with a thick layer of ice and snow, the location having been swept by an avalanche during the night. They found no trace of the first two men although they searched for two days and discovered a few articles of equipment.

A small German party again was in the vicinity of Nanga Parbat. The object of this summer’s trip was to reconnoitre the approaches to the mountain from the Diamirai Valley with the objective of using this line of attack if it were found feasible for an attempt on the summit next summer. The leader of the party, Peter Aufschaiter, planned to make an attempt on Rakaposhi afterwards if possible.

Another German party consisting of Ernst Grob, Herbert Paidar, and Ludwig Schmaderer was active in Sikim, where they effected the first ascent of Tent Peak. Although this climb was successful, the margin of safety was exceedingly slender. The party had first to climb Nepal Peak (ca. 22,600 ft.), descend to the gap beyond and thence reach the summit of Tent Peak (ca. 23,200 ft.). The party was favored with reasonably good weather, but when they returned to their advanced camp they had no food left and had to descend immediately to their base.

German Expedition in Sikkim. Grob, Paidar and Schmaderer ascended 4600 m. peaks from camp on Hidden Col on Nepal border, and climbed to within 150 m. of Lampo Peak (S. summit, 6900 m.).

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