American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, British Columbia, Purcell Range, Turret Peak

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1939

Turret Peak. First ascent, August 20, 1938. E. Cromwell, Miss G. Engelhard, F. S. North. A small rock summit projecting through the middle of the snowfield halfway between Pigeon Spire and Marmolata. To breakfast place at head of moraine on middle tongue of Bugaboo Glacier, under Snowpatch Spire, 2 hours, 45 minutes. Thence the glacier was ascended directly to the objective peak (2.5 hours). The W. ridge was followed up chimneys and slabs (15 minutes). Crossing the S. ridge of Pigeon Spire the party descended to camp via the Bugaboo- Snowpatch Col in 5 hours.

On the preceding day the party had failed after 5 hours to ascend the main glacier, which is now extremely open and difficult.

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