American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Alberta, Rocky Mountains of Canada, Mt. Murchison

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1939

Mt. Murchison. First ascent of S. tower (C.A.J., xxv, illust. 4 facing p. 26). September 4th, 1938. E. Cromwell, Miss G. Engelhard, E. Feuz, Jr. From a camp just below the two lakes in the valley directly S. of the tower, 3.5 hours to base of peak, whence one hour is required to the S. summit via the large gully which crosses the S. face, descending diagonally from right to left. Rubber shoes used. Sound climbing with numerous interesting slabs and chimneys. The party descended from the S. tower and traversed the connecting ridge to the N. tower (1.5 hours), it being necessary to rope off several times. One hour required to return to S. tower and thence 2.5 hours to camp. [Route shown on illustration opposite.]

The same party, with F. S. North, had attempted the ascent on August 12th, climbing on two ropes, but, owing to snowstorm and high wind, turned back at the smooth slabs at the foot of the large gully.

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