American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Alberta, Rocky Mountains of Canada, Prior Peak (10,750 ft.) and Unnamed (10,150 ft.)

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1938

Prior Peak (10,750 ft.) and Unnamed (10,150 ft.). July 8th, 1937. First ascents of these were made in a continuous route from camp below the tongue of Freshfield glacier. E. Cromwell, E. Cromwell, Jr., Miss G. Engelhard, F. S. North, J. M. Thorington. From the Freshfield basin the crevassed draw leading to the base of Mt. Nanga Parbat was ascended, turning on the upper snow plateau to pass between Mts. Bulyea and Walker, Prior Peak then being traversed from S. to N. on broken ledges. On returning through the Bulyea-Walker saddle, the snowfield was crossed to

S. E. to gain the unnamed peak on the watershed between Mts. Barnard and Trutch, traversing it from W. to E. “A miniature traverse of Mt. Victoria.” Interesting views of frozen Waitabit Lake.

Total distance covered about 22 miles. Ascent from camp to summit of Prior Peak, 7 h. ; total time 12.5 h.

J. M. T.

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